BC and Alaska 2007
I’m sure it will be no surprise to for you to hear
that our holiday to BC and Alaska
was a wonderful trip; full of scenery, wildlife and of course the odd aircraft
or two. This was not a ‘spotters’ trip, but I negotiated enough
time with the family to obtain a flavour of the aviation world on the
‘wet coast’ and set some parameters for a return visit.
I took as many photos as I could together with a great
deal of video. I hope to put a CD together in due course but include a
selection from each location to whet the appetite. The photo selection can be
found HERE and the video
selection HERE. From a photographic point of view be gentle with me. I’m
no expert and the video is all hand held, with a new toy purchased just before
the holiday, so not broadcast quality.
I also used the single shot DVD system on the camera, which was not as
good as I’d hoped it would be but I will try and take some photos off the
video coverage itself in due course.
We flew out to Vancouver
from Glasgow with Globespan (767ER) via Calgary for a passenger
drop. No doubt the Rocky Mountaineer set. This however thinned out the cabin
and we all gained a window seat for the one-hour flight ‘over the
hump’ to Vancouver.
With relatively cloud-free skies the Rocky
Mountain scenery was
spectacular. Needless to say I sought out any airstrips I could remember from
our previous tour five years ago. Even spotted one or two! Lots of interesting
ramp stuff at both international airports and as we taxied in at Vancouver, a couple of
Air North 748’s and cargo Convair 580’s were on view. Naturally Coal Harbour
was busy with the usual culprits – Harbour Air Beavers and Otters, Baxter
Beavers and West Coast Twin Otters.
After a quiet days flight-recovery around downtown we had
a hire car booked for a day trip to Whistler and saw our first black bear
whilst cruising up the Sea to Sky
Highway. Whistler is of course home to Whistler
Air, based on Green
Lake located just beyond
the main resort complex.
Whistler Air [ www.whistlerair.ca
] is home to a Turbine Otter (C-GEND 371) and two Beavers. We arrived late
afternoon and November Delta was
being refuelled ready for its scheduled service to Vancouver. Beaver C-FSKZ was also present.
After a photo request of the re-fueller I realised I was talking to Mike Quinn
the Owner, President and Chief Pilot. Several years ago Mike flew the Otter
down to the Antarctic to support operations following the undercarriage
collapse of a DC3. The trip took the thick end of a month and he was on
wheels/skis for several months before the long return to BC. Bush flying in all
kinds of ways.
WA are having another busy season with ‘round the
patch’ tourist flights, their scheduled services and charter flights. The
new paint scheme is striking and very photogenic. With both aircraft settled
quietly at the dock on what was a very pleasant afternoon, surrounded by the
mountain scenery, I could have happily sat their all day. The
Vancouver-Whistler-Vancouver service would definitely be worth the effort as
the route along Howe Sound and into the Mountains would be spectacular even on
a bad weather day. The Green
Lake arrival/departure
would also be very exciting.
We watched the Otter depart (see video clip) and having
thanked Mike for his time made to go. No sooner had I turned away than the Tyax
Air Beaver (C-GIYV) [ www.tyaxair.com ] landed and taxied in to drop a couple
of guys who had spent a few days camping at the foot of a local glacier.
Two days later we boarded an Alaska Air 737 (AS105) for
the three hour flight to Anchorage.
Needless to say I ensured we were in good time to check-in (more ramp viewing
time) and this paid off as the queues were extensive. We had pre-booked seats
online but which side to sit? Port for Vancouver Island
or starboard for the Coast range. I opted for port and was treated to a great
view of the Island and its various airports as
well as some spectacular scenery (this will become a common theme). However,
the lunchtime flight was not full so I dashed across the cabin to take shots to
starboard as well. Great flight route, excellent (laid back and friendly)
in-flight service and a wonderful if rather grey arrival into Anchorage. Having practiced the approaches so
often on FS2004 I knew where we were in the pattern and what to expect out of
the window. I was not disappointed. The ERA and NAC ramps were busy with Dash 8
(the Convairs have been retired) and DC6B respectively. We parked next to
another Alaska
737 with the Salmon paint job all the way down its side.
As we drove out of the airport my attention was divided
between coping with a vehicle the size of an aircraft carrier, that I had
needed a ladder to climb into and the apparent wasps nest of aircraft buzzing
hither and thither in my field of view; most sporting floats. As many of you
will know, Anchorage International is directly adjoined by Lake Hood
– the cosmic centre of the universe for float planes – together
with a dirt strip for fixed wheels. Merrill Field is only a matter of a couple
of miles away with the Elmendorf Military base similarly close by. Something
for all the family. And in the three days we were there I don’t think
there was a type of aircraft (civil or military) that we didn’t see; including
helicopters. A DC3 took off over our hotel just as we were checking in. Seventh
heaven or what?
Lake Hood is an L-shaped lake of quite some
size with a parallel runway arrangement in part which is separated by a narrow
island. A series of cul de sac inlets provide further mooring space. There is
not a scrap of bankside anywhere around the lake that does not provide a
mooring for a floatplane, complete with a small landing dock and cabin. Other
aircraft are pulled up on the side and others parked in rows alongside the
surfaced runway. Tundra tyred Super Cubs abound. The northern end has a hotel
overlooking the usual takeoff/landing zone and discussions with other visitors
staying in bed and breakfast accommodation nearby even provided ATC coverage on
their balcony. Access by car is very easy and you can drive all the way round
– give way to taxiing aircraft!
Between the main airport and the lake there are a number
of parking areas for aircraft – literally hundreds of them – with
taxiways linking the dirt strip in one direction and the main airport in the
other. There is a pilot shop just off (and very visible from) the main airport
road at the junction with Spenard. Because Alaska tends not to go dark too quickly in
the summer, flying was going on until quite late.
The Alaskan
Aviation Heritage
Museum is located at the
southern end and is a good place to start, given that it is right next to the
Rusts Flying Service dock [ www.flyrusts.com
]; a hive of Otter, Beaver, Cessna Caravan and other floatplane action. The
museum provides a fascinating insight into Alaskan flying and as you will see
from the photo’s a range of interesting aircraft.
Two miles north out of Anchorage downtown is Merrill Field, another
very busy airport [ www.muni.org/merrill1/merrill1.cfm
]. Sadly time only permitted a drive by, but there is plenty to see even from
the main road, which runs right beside the airport. Given the sensitivity of
military airports I didn’t even try to locate Elmendorf, but there was
plenty of military jet and heavy traffic around.
We joined our cruise at Seward, a great drive for about
100 miles south of Anchorage.
Just remember that filling stations are very few and far between. A fuel gauge
showing twenty miles left in the tank with fifty to go gave me pause for
thought, but a risky 10 mile diversion off-route saved the day, just. We called
in at Girdwood where a small tarmac strip nestles in the woodland and a Beaver
was seen landing, but had turned around and departed by the time we found the
airport.
Juneau offered the Wings Airways Otters
N336AK, N337AK, N338AK and N339AK at their dock just alongside the cruise
terminal. Good viewing from the dockside available. They were kept very busy on
scheduled and Taku Lodge (and other) flightseeing trips and I had to steel
myself and forego a trip here in favour of a longer flight in Ketchikan. Tough decision.
We also visited Skagway and although there were no Otters here
the airport is quite active with Twin Otter flightseeing aircraft and a range
of light aircraft. I didn’t have the equipment to take any worthwhile
shots here, but the airport is only a short walk from the main street and worth
a visit. Mind you, almost everything is only a short walk in Skagway as it nestles in a narrow valley.
Ketchikan provided Dad’s day and I
had booked a flight with a longstanding family operation Alaska Seaplane Tours
[ www.alaskaseaplanetours.com
] in their wonderfully colour-schemed Beaver. Yes I know it is contrary to my
Otter allegiances, but I wanted maximum flight time and they offered a great
trip through the Misty Fjords over the Glaciers and into an away landing
followed by a return to downtown. About two hours in total. I also stood to get
the right-hand seat as well.
We were collected from the
dockside in the Company van driven by an enthusiastic Martin Rush and delivered
the short distance to their dock. Very walkable from the cruise dock. We went
back in the afternoon for viewing and videoing. The Beaver was being fuelled as
we arrived and following introductions to our pilot for the day Keith Deschambeault we boarded the aircraft.
We were joined by a quiet, elderly American who requested the right-hand seat
and in deference to age I suggested he went first. There was method in my
madness though because I wanted the takeoff from wherever we landed away and
the landing back in Ketchikan
with the cans on for ATC and a chat to the pilot. I also had a funny feeing
there was more to the chap than met the eye. He didn’t bother with the
headset, preferring to enjoy the sound of the radial at full volume. After much
effort to draw him into conversation it transpired that he was an ex-USN
Corsair pilot who had flown many missions in Korea. Its always the quiet ones!!
The
Misty Fjords proved true to their title and as there had been a fatality the
week before I expect Keith was naturally a little more cautious. We took off past
the cruise ships keeping low to build speed and proceeded into the Fjordland
over muskeg, lakes and waterfalls. After a while we took a look into the valley
which would have taken us up to the glacier, but it was blocked with cloud and
with three pilots on board all agreeing that it looked too dicey, Keith
diverted to Walker Cove for a water landing in a side valley. We taxied up a
stream for a while to where he knew a grizzly bear and cubs were regularly to
be found. Dropping the hook (after consulting local tide tables) we climbed out
on the floats for some bear watching.
It was
remarkably peaceful and the bears duly appeared, albeit at some distance on
this occasion. Mrs B was content though. We were also treated to a flyby from
one of Keith’s mates who spotted us whilst passing and flew up our valley
and barnstormed us before diving off en-route down the main valley. The camera
wasn’t ready but I just watched contentedly as this flyby occurred and
even my teenage son expressed a ‘cooool’ to recognise the event.
Clambering
around on the floats was reasonably easy and I made every effort to absorb the
experience. All too soon it was time to go. Keith pulled up the anchor and we
drifted backward toward the main channel for a while into a wider area before
starting the engine and making our way back to Ketchikan. The takeoff and landing videos are
HERE. Enough said.
The
weather was satisfactory, but improved in the afternoon and everyone was
surprised by the sunshine. If we’d flown in the afternoon we would
probably have made the full trip to the glacier, but would not perhaps have had
the same experience so the consensus was the trip was excellent. My thanks to
Keith and all at Alaska Seaplane Tours for a well organised, well operated and
thoroughly enjoyable trip.
The
occurrence of another crash just a week later must have rocked Ketchikan, which is positively alive with
floatplane operations. The weather is very variable and we were evidently
fortunate.
For those
of you intending to visit, the Promech dock has a great viewing area
overlooking their base with Turbo Otters, Beavers and other floatplanes coming
and going all the time. When we arrived all was quiet but after 10 minutes the
flock began to arrive and all was activity and noise for the next hour or so.
Taquan Beavers [ www.taquanair.com ]
are away to the right with a range of other Beaver operators in docks to the
left.
One
Promech Otter still sports a radial engine and sat quietly, close to the
loading dock, evidently inactive. How wrong I was. During a last dash around
the shops with Mrs B late on (and having run out of video battery) she departed
in stately fashion climbing away to the south. A great sight. She evidently has
a trick up her sleeve to attract attention, because as I followed her progress
she backfired alarmingly loudly, the noise echoing off the hillside and turned
many heads in the street. I had a momentary pang of concern but she seemed to continue
untroubled and I imagine that at her age some digestive disturbance is only to
be expected!
Because
much of the flying is cruise visitor related, aircraft tend to fly by the ships
on departure so there is good viewing from the deck. However as ship departure
time approaches there is an evident winding down of activity and aircraft are
ramped for cleaning and preparation for the following day. If you haven’t
seen Don Peachey’s video do so; it really captures the essence of
aviation at Ketchikan.
If you can’t make Anchorage, Ketchikan is the next
best venue in my view. There appears to be a direct flight from Seattle with Alaska Air.
So much action and so little time.
My final
session was a short visit to Coal
Harbour for some Harbour
Air activity [ www.harbour-air.com/home/index.php.
] Baxter Beavers were also present, together with West Coast Air Twin Otters [ www.westcoastair.com ]. The new Conference
Centre is making progress and the float base looks to be sited where it will
remain in the future. When we visited five years ago I enjoyed a Turbo Otter
flight from Coal Harbour
to Victoria
and back.
A great
trip all round, with plenty of aerial action and although Otters are relatively
thin on the ground in comparison, they are well grouped for viewing and very
active. There is plenty to see for any aviation enthusiast and we will be going
back.
Ian
